by Siobhan Cosgrave
Our skin really is a big deal! It is the body’s largest organ and an important endocrine organ that plays a significant role in synthesising vitamin D and other hormones. (4) Our skin is our first line of defence against the outside world and external pathogens. Skin also protects against water loss and regulates temperature by dilating and constricting blood vessels near the skin’s surface to control heat loss. Skin is a sensory organ that detects heat, cold, pressure, pleasure, and pain. (5) The skin keeps essential fluids within the body and assists in the removal of waste products through sweat. Our skin has many functions but can also be prone to more than 3,000 skin conditions. (7)
It is a common misconception that skin care is only an external issue, but truly healthy skin comes from the inside out.
“True Beauty comes from within”
The Ayurvedic approach to skin care recognises that skin health is far from superficial; it reflects our internal and emotional health. If you are experiencing skin issues such as eczema, psoriasis, rashes, blotchiness, or dull skin, rather than focusing on topical treatments, you need to uncover and correct internal imbalances.
The Doshas
Modern science starts with cells. Cells form tissue, tissues form organs, organs form systems, and systems form the human body. Ayurveda explains the human body differently. According to Ayurveda, three primary life forces, derived from the five elements (air, ether, water, fire, earth), govern all physical and psychological functions in the body and mind. These are known as the three doshas: vata, pitta and kapha. (2) Everyone is born with their unique mix of doshas (usually with one dominant dosha) called prakriti (constitution), which needs to be kept in balance to remain well and healthy. Our prakriti also influences our skin quality and tendencies. (3)
Vata-dominant prakriti types tend to have dry skin, which may appear rough or chapped, with cracks on the hands and feet being common. Vata skin tans easily, but the circulation may be poor, leading to pale lips, nail beds and skin. (3)
Pitta’s skin is characterised by heat, so it is prone to inflammation, rashes, acne, skin flushes and red-looking skin. Pitta skin burns quickly in the sun. Pitta skin is usually combination/oily. (3)
Kapha skin can appear thick and oily and feel cool or clammy to the touch. The skin is often very smooth in appearance, may have large pores, and appears healthier in dry, hot weather. (3)
Pitta resides in the skin and governs its colour, texture, and temperature, as well as its lustre and glow. It also governs sweating and everything applied to the skin (lotions, creams, oils, medications), as well as anything that passively contacts the skin, such as pollution, dust, and allergens. The blood, the liver, and agni (digestive fire) all have a strong pitta presence and directly impact skin health. Excess pitta in any one of these areas can have an amplified effect on the skin. Keeping pitta systemically balanced supports healthy skin and helps prevent skin irritation. (6)
Importance of Agni (Digestive Fire)
In Ayurveda, we are not what we eat, but what we can digest and absorb. If agni is weak, food may not digest properly and can ferment in the gut, leading to the accumulation of ama (toxins). Weak agni also prevents the body from extracting and absorbing nourishment from food. Ama can circulate through the body, affecting blood quality. In Ayurveda, the skin is considered to be the cream of the blood that rises to the surface. Therefore, the foundation of good skin is balanced blood chemistry. (2)
Blood quality is a direct result of the strength of agni. The stronger the agni, the cleaner the blood will be and, in turn, the healthier the skin. The weaker the agni, the more ama is present in the blood, increasing the likelihood of inflamed, puffy, dull skin, acne, and other skin conditions. This is why, when improving skin, Ayurveda often looks to the digestive system first and uses blood-purifying herbs. (7)
A healthy liver is also vital for good skin health, as it is the primary organ of detoxification, endlessly filtering and detoxifying the blood. The liver also plays a significant role in digestion and metabolism.(7)
Importance of Daily Elimination
In Ayurveda, healthy daily elimination is passing at least one or two bowel movements daily. This is also a sign of strong agni. Bowel movements should be well formed, not sticky, and have only a mild odour. Not passing a bowel movement daily means waste is not being removed from the body and can be absorbed into the bloodstream, contributing to skin issues. Improving agni, staying hydrated and implementing stress management techniques will all aid regular bowl movements.
Daily sweating also helps the body remove waste. People with skin conditions often struggle to sweat because obstructions in the body’s fatty tissues block sweat production. Practising udvartana (see below) can help break down blockages in fatty tissue, helping the body sweat.
Emotions
Stress and emotions deeply influence the skin. Cortisol is a hormone that is produced when we are stressed. Prolonged stress can cause excessive amounts of cortisol, which contributes to imbalances within the doshas and digestive system, leading to inflammation and skin disorders. (3)
The liver processes and breaks down hormones and supports the smooth flow of emotions. If it becomes overburdened with cortisol, adrenaline, or other hormones, its ability to clean the blood is compromised, and toxins can be pushed out through the skin, causing rashes, inflammation, and conditions such as eczema. (3)
How to Support Skin Health
If you are suffering from a skin condition, a qualified Ayurvedic practitioner can determine the underlying causes and devise a treatment plan to re-establish balance in the body and mind.
A generalised approach to healing skin conditions or achieving glowing skin is to ensure digestion and elimination function well, manage stress, process emotions, and keep pitta and your prakriti balanced.
Improving Agni and Elimination
Eliminate ultra-processed foods such as packaged foods, ready-made foods and foods high in white sugar
Reduce caffeine, nicotine and alcohol
Favour freshly cooked warm foods that are easy to digest such as basmati rice, soups and stews
Eat in a calm environment free of electronic gadgets or devices so you fully focus on your food
Eat slowly and stop when 75% full to leave space for digestive juices
Don’t eat until the previous meal has been digested
Try to eat your largest meal at lunchtime when digestion is strongest
Don’t eat late at night so food is digested before sleep
Go for a short walk after eating to aid digestion
Eat regularly and at the same time every day
Include good fats such as ghee, coconut oil, sesame seed oil and olive oil
Include digestive spices such as ginger, fennel, cumin, coriander and turmeric
Reduce foods that irritate the skin, like spicy (cayenne, chilli), sour or acidic (lemon, pickles, fermented)
Avoid cold drinks and sip on warm water throughout the day
Managing Emotions and Stress
It is important to feel and acknowledge emotions so you can release them and let them go. Emotions that fester or become stagnant will contribute to liver congestion. Practices such as meditation, yoga and mindfulness help to cool and quieten the mind, aid digestion, elimination and to balance the doshas.
Herbs for Skin Health
Ayurvedic and herbal medicines are customised to each individual’s prakriti, imbalances and digestion. It is always best to seek advice from a qualified practitioner who can select the correct herbs and dosages.
Neem (Azadirachta indica)
Neem is one of Ayurveda’s best detoxifying herbs and is excellent for combating heat and inflammatory conditions. Its bitter taste stimulates appetite and digestion, increases bile flow, enhances liver function, purifies the blood, and destroys toxins. Neem pacifies pitta and kapha but can aggravate vata unless it is combined with other herbs to offset this. (8)
Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia)
Manjishta is one of the best pitta-reducing, detoxifying herbs. It clears heat and ama from the blood. It is excellent for stubborn skin problems. It helps improve appetite and digestion and supports the liver. (8)
Sandalwood (Santanlum album
Sandalwood has a cooling and calming effect on the mind and body. It relieves pitta and is used for many skin conditions and to promote glowing skin. (8)
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica)
Gotu kola supports the skin’s natural healing while pacifying all three doshas. It improves circulation, is detoxifying and anti-inflammatory. (8)
Aloe vera ((Kumari)
The gel from the inner leaf has a cooling, soothing action in the body. It is good for excess pitta in the blood and for inflammatory conditions. It’s an excellent bitter tonic for the liver and digestive system. Aloe can also be used topically for allergic and inflammatory skin conditions. It can heal burns, rejuvenate skin and reduce wrinkles. (8)
Self-Care Practices for Skin Health
Abhyanga (Self Oil Massage)
Abhyanga is the practice of massaging the whole body with warm oil. It nourishes the nervous system, helping relax the body and mind. Abhyanga helps to improve circulation, counteract the dryness of vata, therefore reducing lines and wrinkles. It also helps to loosen toxins under the skin, encouraging them to flow into the digestive tract to be eliminated through the bowel.
Abhyanga is best performed with sesame seed oil. Coconut oil is cooling, so it can be used if pitta is high or in the summer. For the face, rosehip oil, jojoba oil, Bakuchi oil and carrot seed oil are good.
How to do Abhyanga
Select the oil according to your prakriti; if you don’t know your prakriti, then sesame oil is best for everyone, as it balances all doshas
Make sure the oil is warm, sit on a stool or comfortable seating, take some oil in your palm, and apply it to the scalp with your fingers. Massage the head with gentle circular strokes
Now apply oil to the ear and face gently and continue the massage for a few minutes
Massage onto your chest and limbs; use long strokes for the limbs and circular for joints
Massage your whole body with love and patience; it can help to relieve stress and tension
Give extra attention to the head, ears, and feet
Rinse the oil off in a warm bath or shower
Oils for Prakriti
Vata person: Abhyanga should be practised daily and should be performed in a warm environment; sudden exposure to a cold environment should be avoided after practising abhyanga
Pitta person: Oils that are cooling in nature are preferred. The oil that is at room temperature should be used in the summer season, and slightly warm oil during winters
Kapha person: Use less oil. Always warm the oil before applying it to the body
Abhyanga Dos
Should be practised by everyone every day
Abhyanga is practised especially during cold weather as it counteracts the drying effect of cold weather
Select the oil based on season and any health condition/dosha imbalance
Give special attention to the head, ears, and feet
Be gentle and make sure the strokes are slow and steady
Let the oil soak in to allow the oil to be absorbed more deeply
Take a warm bath after every abhyanga
Abhyanga Don’ts
Avoid this practice in case of:
High fever
Cardiac diseases
Skin diseases
Acute inflammation
Open wound
Recent fractures
One should not practice abhyanga after having a meal or in case of severe indigestion
Avoid during the menstrual cycle as it can create a weakened state of the body
Udvartana
Udvartana is the practice of rubbing the body with a herbal powder such as triphala or chick pea flour. It helps to liquify fat for removal from the body. It stimulates the lymphatic system, balances both kapha and pitta, further encourages detoxification and circulation, and helps remove excess oil from the skin after abhyanga.
How to Perform Udvartana
Start from the bottom of the feet to the top and use swift and vigorous movements.
Triphala powder is generally recommended, but simple chickpea flour can also be used for the massage.
Silk gloves or a dry brush can be used on a person with oily skin and kapha imbalances
Stroke against the direction of hair growth, upward and toward the heart from the hands. Upwards and towards the groin for legs. Circular strokes on stomach and breasts.
Wash off the powder after Udvartana, then apply moisturiser to avoid dryness.
Avoid in case of:
Dry skin
Eczema
Skin open wounds
While taking Medications that might irritate your skin
Kansa Wand
The Kansa wand is an ancient Ayurvedic tool known for its gift of stimulating lymphatic drainage, massaging away puffiness, invigorating the skin and stimulating marma (acupressure points) that balance and harmonize our mind, senses and the skin. It is made of bronze which has antibacterial and antimicrobial properties.
Using a Kansa Wand
Take a little bit of facial oil on your face and apply all over your face.
First step is to activate the marma points on the face by massaging them anti-clockwise three times
Idea of face massage is to remove excess lymph and to improve blood circulation
Lymph is like water and is based superficially under the skin so at any point, pressure should be minimal
Siobhan Cosgrave is a qualified Ayurveda Consultant (diet, lifestyle and herbs). Ayurveda (traditional Indian medicine) is the oldest health science in the world. Siobhan is drawn to its principles of living in harmony with nature and achieving health by establishing balance between the body, mind, and spirit.
Bibliography
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2. McIntyre, A., 2012. The Ayurveda bible. Alresford: Godsfield.
3. Smith, V., 2016. Anatomy and Physiology in Ayurveda Dietekon, Switzerland: EIVS Gmbh
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5. Withalls C. The skin is a very important (and our largest) organ: what does it do?. The Conversation. https://theconversation.com/the-skin-is-a-very-important-and-our-largest-organ-what-does-it-do-91515. Published 2018. Accessed October 16, 2022.
6. Mischke M. Soothe Your Skin Guide. Banyanbotanicals.com. https://www.banyanbotanicals.com/info/ayurvedic-living/living-ayurveda/health-guides/soothe-your-skin-guide/. Published 2021. Accessed October 13, 2022.
7. SKIN HEALTH – Joyful Belly School of Ayurveda. Joyfulbelly.com. https://www.joyfulbelly.com/Ayurveda/symptoms/Skin. Accessed October 19, 2022.
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